Sunday, December 23, 2007

Silk Sarees

History of Silks:

History was made around 3000 BC when the Chinese empress, Hsi-Ling-Shih, discovered the potential of the pests that were destroying the emperor's mulberry trees. Lady Hsi-Ling-Shih dropped a silkworm cocoon into boiling water in an attempt to discover a way to eradicate these mulberry tree eaters. To her astonishment, she found a thin thread like filament unraveling from the cocoon. Silk thread was discovered. One-time pests, the worms of the blind, flightless moth, Bombyx Mori, became China's pride and most zealously guarded secret.

For almost 2,000 years, the rest of the world lived in jealous awe of the marvelous Chinese fabric called silk. Even the famous Roman historian, Pliny, was baffled. In 70 BC, he wrote that "silk was obtained by removing the down of leaves with the help of a little water..." China reveled in its position as the world's only producer of silk and anyone caught trying to smuggle silkworm eggs out of China was put to death.

But eventually, the secret leaked out. In 200 BC, Chinese immigrants to Korea took the secret with them. In 300 AD, it is believed that
India
began silkworm cultivation. The West, however, remained in the dark, until 550 AD when two Nestorian monks from the Byzantine empire smuggled silkworm eggs out of China in their hollow bamboo walking sticks.

Silk trade was so lucrative that in 2 B.C. , an official Silk Road was opened. The road, the world's longest ever, stretched from Eastern China to the Mediterranean. Even, today, intrepid travelers get a thrill out of retracing the ancient Silk Road

Kancheepuram:

If it's an occasion, it has to be Kanjeevaram. For centuries, Indian women have reveled in the flattering beauty of elegant breathtaking creations from the weavers of Kancheepuram (formerly known as Kanjeevaram). Made out of pure mulberry silk and washed in the enhancing water of the Palar river, Kancheepuram silk has a dazzling luster. The sari, in turn, lights up the wearer which is why most women find Kanjeevaram saris irresistible.

Strangely, no one has been able to trace the history of silk in Kancheepuram. Yet, there are hereditary weaver communities like the Senguntha Mudaliars and the Saliyars who, for centuries, have known no other profession. For some centuries, Kancheepuram was the capital of the glorious Chola and Pallava dynasties. These rulers were patrons of arts and it is likely that they encouraged and patronized the skillful weavers. Today, there are over 30,000 weavers in the town.

A Kancheepuram sari is a marvel of both imagination and technique. You might appreciate your Kanjeevaram even more, if you knew what went into its creation.

Made out of double thread silk (which gives it that distinctive weight), a Kanjeevaram sari is simultaneously worked on by two weavers. The main weaver works on the body and the designs on the body (known as 'butta'), while the assistant works the shuttles that weave the border. Co-ordination and timing have to be perfect. This is why, the contrasting border of a Kanjeevaram sari seems to blend so smoothly with the body.

The designs used by the weavers are taken from evocative imagery. The elegant peacock, the graceful three bells of an anklet, the slender vanki (bracelet worn around the upper arm), the fresh mangoes and sweet grapes and shy creepers... all this and more lend their beauty to the sari. Even the colors are vibrant. A mango yellow body is set off by a deep maroon border. A parrot green body is complemented by a bright pink border. The combinations are endless but always aesthetic and complimentary to the lovely person wearing them.

Arni:

Arni is a little town located 130 km from Chennai. What puts Arni on the map is the stunning, lightweight handloom silk saris made by its skilled weavers. Responding to market demands for lighter and therefore less expensive silk saris, the Arni weavers use single thread silk. Their work is, nonetheless, exquisite. Arni saris are famous for their intricately woven borders and delicate but extensive zari work. Their lightness makes them drape well while their designs make them dressy and elegant.

Thirubuvanam:

It's rare to find a whole town dedicated to one art, but Thirubuvanam is just that. Situated in Thanjavur district, Thirubuvanam was founded by the last of the Cholas, King Kulothunga III. It has been a silk-weaving town for several centuries and many of its weavers originally hailed from Saurashtra in Gujarat.

What sets Thirubuvanam saris apart is the fact that they are made from filature silk. Their quality and sheen are legendary. Decorated with extensive zari work, the saris come with both single and double borders. Skilled weavers meld the border and body of the sari into a seamless flow. Zari buttas decorate the body. The zari is gold coated pure silver thread. These saris are so popular that the Thirubuvanam Cooperative Silk Society is the largest in Tamil Nadu.

Salem:

Salem doesn't stop at silk saris. This town in western Tamil Nadu is also famed for its handloom silk dhothies, shirtings and angavastrams. Even today, Salem supplies clothing to the idols in the temple town of Tirupathi.

Around 16 silk handloom weavers' cooperative societies produce Salem's silk creations. Salem silks are popular because they combine high quality with lower prices. Just what most consumers shop around for! Salem silk saris, in particular, are lighter and softer than most silk saris and drape beautifully.

In Vogue

The Kalakshetra and Eco-weave collections are this season's rage.

The Kalakshetra Collection:

Every Kalakshetra sari is hand-crafted, exclusive and stunningly simple. The luster of the silk or the purity of the cotton, the intricate traditional designs, the contrasting borders and pallus often done in pure gold or silver zari, speak of an art that knows no compromise on quality. Kalakshetra saris are so in demand that customers have waited even a year for an order to be executed.

The good news is that Loom World customers can buy Kalakshetra saris straight off the shelf. The Kalakshetra Foundation has permitted the Tamil Nadu Department of Handlooms and Textiles to use its designs and patterns.
At present, 400 Kalakshetra saris await you at the Loom World shop. And there's much more to come...

Devoted to the revival and continuance of Indian arts and crafts, The Kalakshetra Foundation in Chennai epitomizes the glory and elegance of tradition. Saris have been coming off its looms since 1937.

The Eco-weave Collection:

With the Eco-weave collection, we return to an art form that is nearly 5,000 years old - the use of natural dyes. Drawing upon the ancient knowledge of dyes extracted from nature, weavers today are creating saris that are not just beautiful but also environment-friendly.

The Loom World shop offers you over 200 naturally dyed silk saris to choose from. And when you drape yourself in an Eco-weave sari, you have the satisfaction of knowing that the dyes used are non-carcinogenic, non-toxic and gentle on your skin. Produced by 21 Handloom Weavers' Cooperative Societies, the Eco-weave range marks the reemergence of an age-old art.

Mysore Silk Sarees

Sarees have been the traditional wear of Indian women. The beauty of a women increses when she is in saree. Weddings in India are incomplete without silk sarees. In India there are many kinds of sarees available depending on the place of manufacture. Kanchi sarees from Kancheepuram, Banaras sarees from Varanasi, ??? from Kolkata and Mysore silk from Mysore. All these sarees are different in the design and the type of material they use. and the way they are made. Mysore silk sarees are made of pure silk. The silk is a material produced by a type of worms which wove a cucoon around themselves using their saliva. Later this material becomes silk, the raw material for the sarees. Mysore silk sarees are manufactured by "Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation" a government run factory in Mysore. The factory is located on "Manandavadi road" which is about 5 kms from Mysore palace. There is a showroom in the factory where people/tourists can buy genuine Mysore silk sarees. Genuine silk sarees are costly and prices start from Rs. 2000 onwards and reach lakhs of rupees which have gold threads embedded with silk.

History of indian saree or sari:

In past times, saris were primarily woven of Silk or cotton. All saris were handwoven and represented a considerable investment of time or money. Even today, you can find, simple handwoven sarees, more in use among the villagers. Saris were also decorated with block printing using carved wooden blocks and vegetable dyes, or tie-dyeing, known in India as bandhni work.

The magnificence of the saree, depends on the amount of creativity and innovation, presented in the saree. This can be done, in various forms, like Zari work, Bandhni, Zardosi, Kundan work, Pearls Studded, Swarovski crystals. In south india, a small town, called Kaanchivaram or Kanchipuram, created history, with its awesome creation of Silk Sarees. Even today, Sarees from Kanchipuram have their own, value and beauty.

The free-hanging end, the pallu, could be additionally embellished with punkra or punchra work, in which part of the weft is removed and the warp threads are knotted into elaborate patterns, sometimes decorated with beads or precious stones.

In the modern era, Casual wear sharees is the need of the hour. Artificial fibres like Nylon and Rayon are used to loom casual sharee. Printed with multicolor, these sarees, quench the need of simple, yet elegant casual wear sarees.

One can choose from a variety of collections today, to serve the purpose of having a wonderful saree with her. From Bandhani worked to Chikan, From Zardosi to Kundan, Zari worked to Mundus, Every creation, has its own value and beauty.

The Sarees have left an indelible impression all over the world, and its value seems to increase even among the young generation, as a Saree can take its own turn of fashion too.

Various categories of Indian Sarees are, Kanchipuram Silk Sarees which is also sometimes called as kanchivaram saree or kancheepuram silk saris, Banaras Silk sarees also spelt as Benaras Silk Saris, Lucknow Chickan worked sarees, Mysore pure silk sarees, Mysore art silk sarees, Bandhej sarees from Jaipur with Bandheni prints and dyeing work, Venkatagiri Cotton Sarees, Embroidered Silk Georgette sarees with zardosi hand embroidery suitable for weddings, mehendi, engagement, wedding reception or bridal occasions. Indian sarees are accepted worldwide by most designers from Hollywood to bollywood as a mark of fashion.